• Cut, never stamped. The disc is laser cut from virgin high carbon 420 stainless, then double disc parallel ground so both faces run true to each other. A stamped rotor starts life carrying the stress the press put into it. This one does not.
• Heat treated for the bike it fits. Galfer heat treats to the application rather than running one spec across the catalogue, so a rotor for a heavy cruiser and a rotor for a light scrambler are not the same part with a different bolt circle.
• The wave shape is doing a job. More leading edge for the pad to bite on each rotation, and a shorter route for heat, water and pad dust to leave the surface. It also looks better than a plain disc, which is a bonus, not the reason.
• Direct replacement. Stock mounting points, stock caliper, stock pads. No bracket, no spacer, no modification.
• KBA ABE 61147 and TÜV approved. That is the German type approval number for Galfer's fixed Wave discs. Most rotors sold as approved never tell you the number.
• Made where they have always been made. Granollers, outside Barcelona, in Galfer's own 6,000 square metre factory, a few minutes from the Circuit de Catalunya.

• Type: Fixed solid mount Wave rotor, Galfer type W
• Material: Virgin high carbon 420 stainless steel
• Manufacture: Laser cut, double disc parallel ground, heat treated per application
• Approvals: KBA ABE 61147, TÜV. Galfer holds ISO 9001, ISO 14001 and ISO 50001 and operates to IATF 16949
• Diameter: 245mm to 285mm depending on application. Select your bike above for the exact size
• Sold: Individually. Rear applications take one
• Origin: Granollers, Barcelona, Spain
• Warranty: 6 months from date of purchase

• One Galfer Rear Wave Rotor
• Rotor bolts are not included. Triumph and Ducati rear rotor bolts are single use on most applications, so plan on a fresh set

Difficulty: Straightforward. Comfortable for a home mechanic with a stand and a torque wrench. Time: About 45 minutes. Tools: Socket set, Torx or Allen depending on model, torque wrench, thread locker, brake cleaner.

1. Get the rear wheel off the ground on a paddock stand or a centre stand.
2. Remove the rear wheel following the procedure in your manual. On chain drive bikes that means slackening the adjusters and dropping the axle.
3. Unbolt the old rotor. If the bolts fight you, use heat rather than force. They are thread locked from the factory.
4. Clean the hub face completely. Anything left on it holds the new rotor out of true, and a rotor sitting out of true feels exactly like a warped one.
5. Fit the new rotor with fresh bolts and thread locker, tightening in a star pattern to the torque figure in your Triumph or Ducati manual.
6. Refit the wheel, set your chain tension, and torque the axle to spec.
7. Wipe the rotor down with brake cleaner before you ride. Fingerprints and packing oil glaze a new surface.
8. Bed it in. Ten to fifteen progressively harder stops from moderate speed without coming to a complete stop, then let it cool fully before riding normally.

• Check your model and year above. Triumph changed rear disc sizes across the Bonneville, Thruxton and Scrambler lines more than once. Use the selector rather than assuming your bike matches a friend's.
• New pads at the same time. A used pad has worn to the shape of the old rotor. Put it on a new one and you get partial contact for the first few hundred miles.
• Budget for rotor bolts. Not included, and single use on most applications.
• You need a torque wrench. Rotor bolts go to a spec and get thread locked. Tightening by feel is how a new rotor ends up sitting out of true, and it will feel exactly like the warped one you just replaced.
• Bed it in properly. A rotor that is not bedded in feels worse than the one you took off. That is a process problem, not a part problem.
• Rear rotors are sold individually. Your bike takes one.